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I’ve actually had the parts to install this tray for years… but I never did it because I was worried about weight. Well, after we shed about a hundred pounds with our propane-removing-Timberline-installing bit, I figured I had the leeway to go for it, so I’ve finally installed our slide-out bike tray. Check it out!
I gave myself a few constraints when I was designing this mod.
- I did NOT want to attach anything to the walls or floor of the EKKO’s gear garage. This all attaches solely to the L-Track that’s already installed. Bonus – that means it’s also easily removable.
- I wanted to keep things as light weight as possible. So this is all aluminum and lightweight woods.
- I wanted to make sure to have enough room left over to bring along our new inflatable kayak! No point going through the mod to just wind up with just the same two-bikes-and-nothing-else situation we had before.
I was able to work within all these constraints, and we even wound up with a little bonus storage underneath the bike tray. All in all, we’re calling this a successful project.
The Links
As to exactly what I did to install the tray, you can see that in the video. But you’re probably here for the links, so let’s get started!
The 60″ Locking Drawer Slides
For any project that requires you to buy a key component of it, it’s usually best to start with that, and then work around it. So that’s what I did. The link is to the exact slides I purchased on Amazon.
The Camco Storage Bags
I had to come up with some way to store the water hose and electrical cord. These bags are pretty simple, and I store them in the compartment that used to house propane.
L-Track Bolts
I needed some bolts for the L-track that were a little bit longer to secure the slides. These fit the bill and are the ones you see in the video.
Wera Joker Wrench Set
I got these for my bicycle tool kit, and they came in handy on this project as well.
Aluminum Channel
Well, I don’t get this stuff from Amazon. And I’m a regular enough customer at onlinemetals.com that they send me a card on my birthday. The link is to the stuff you see in the video.
Ridiculously Beefy Aluminum Angle
While we’re on Online Metals, go ahead and pick up some of this. I only needed less than a foot.
The Metal Cut-Off Saw (spark generator)
I really did go out and buy this in the middle of my project. Since I don’t anticipate using it every day, Harbor Freight was good enough for this one. And while I’m aware of the “don’t cut aluminum – it’ll embed in the wheel” thing, that doesn’t seem to be an issue with the blade I have. It’s wearing away faster than it can load up. Although it did generate more heat on the aluminum than I would prefer. But again… not every day. It may be another decade before I need this again.
Rubber Flooring Mat for Tray
I’ll be honest, I may have gotten this at the local big box store, but this stuff on Amazon is the same brand and thickness.
Unaka Gear Co Through Axle Mount
Before you click on the link… be prepared. They think highly of these…
Hornit Clug Pro Wheel Stand
They intend for this to be something to keep your bike still at home, but it works just fine to keep it from bouncing around on the tray.
Front Wheel Mounts
These are the wheel mounts that I used to have on our Bike Gurney. I repurposed them here.
5/16-18 Star Knob
I’ll be honest, I just have these kinds of things hanging around the shop for making jigs and accessories. But if you need to buy some, the link will get you there.
Our Hiplok Bicycle Locks
They’ve updated them since we bought ours years ago, but this is the lock you’ll find underneath our bike tray. You can wear them as belts while you’re riding. Granted… it’s kind of a heavy belt, so it’s more likely to pull your pants down than hold them up. But at least you don’t need a separate bag to carry it in.
Our Kayak! The Aqua Marina Halve
This is the kayak we wanted to make room for. It’s only 16 pounds or so for a two person kayak. We’ve been loving ours!
If there’s something you see in the video and you want to know what it is, just leave me a note in the comments below and I’ll try to get you a link. I don’t know if anyone will try to build a tray exactly like I did, but hopefully, this gave you some ideas.
Until next time!
James, are you able to load and unload the bikes without using the slide? Sometimes we’re in a tight spot and wouldn’t be able to slide the bikes out, those times I would have to do it the old fashioned way; remove the bikes through the doors.
I’ve honestly never tried it. It seems like pulling the bike straight out would take almost as much room as the tray. (But I guess you could start twisting the bike on the way out.)
If I found us in that tight of a situation… it’s a vehicle. I’d just pull forward or back a few feet to get by the obstruction.
Something like letting passengers out of the car before pulling into a tight garage.
Of course, if you were on a ferry or something, and you were truly packed in, then it wouldn’t work. But then you probably wouldn’t be going for much of a ride on a ferry…
BTW, I really liked your way of attaching your rails to you floor of the tray. we could have saved a 1/4 inch there and we need space. This is embarassing and funny, when I started working on the van I didn’t realize that my tee must have been dropped or damaged somehow. So my long tandem tray was off.Turns out the tee was off. OKAY. it’s not fixed. So the tray was not square. The end it about 1/2 inch right.
But, lucky lucky, turns out that the tray doesn’t hit the batteries, which are just to the left of the tray travel, 1/2 inch. Whatever….
The tee has been fixing..
Sounds similar to my “don’t switch tape measures in the middle of a project” story… 🙂
4. We ski too; in the winter the bike tray becomes the ski tray. Turns out, XC skis are about the same length as a tandem… I also put a non-sliding shelf above the tray, because between our skating skis and classsic skis and wooden skis, we bring about ten pairs of skis. Also, pole tubes are above there.
5. For the front tires, we bungee them to the frame triangle. Faster than dealing with a wheel holder. And more economical in terms of space.
Cheers, Don
I only WISH I could bring along ten pair of skis!
(Stef hasn’t taken to skiing quite as much as I have.)
2. Never found a need to hold the rear wheel. But we do use centering blocks (either side of the rear wheel to help center the bike in the tray.
3. Sometimes we load singles (or half bikes as I call them) into the tray (gravel bikes). In that case my rear seat doesn’t clear, haf to remove it. Have a spare seat clamp on the seat post that sets the seat height, so all I need to do it make sure the seat is straight and tighten it.
I started securing the rear wheels back when using our bike gurney. Stef’s bike bounced around a bit and chipped the paint on my bike. I had to take it in to get it repaired after bouncing over a curb in Biloxi (it was quite the paint chip!). Ever since then I’ve secured the rear wheels.
The clug mounts I used here are about as simple and unobtrusive as you can get.
Seems center blocks would just fine for you.
Hi guys–
After putting the floor into our Transit, the tandem slide was next, and basically the rest of the van was built around the tandem, on its slide.
Some comments, too late for you, but might be useful to others:
1. The slide does not need to be the length of the tray. Of course we learned that because there is no slider that is the length of a tandem. But if you a looking to save weight, don’t use a long slider. Sliding 3/4 or 1/2 the out is usually okay. We have a cute little wheel at the far reach of the tray that keeps the over hang of the slider from damaging the floor, if that is a concern.
We elected for full length drawer slides because I wanted to get the tray all the way out of the garage. I even find myself wishing I had over-travel slides!
But yes, for others, shorter slides than your tray is certainly an option.
I get that. BUT you could work thru your back door to affix the back bike.
If you noticed – in part of this video, I’m wearing a strange looking ball cap.
It’s actually a hard hat.
Anyone who’s cut their head open as often as I have on our gear garage would appreciate not having to lean inside to secure cargo.
Wait a minute…..you didn’t bleed on this mod!!!
Oh, don’t be silly!
That’s WHY I started wearing the hard hat! To keep the bandages in place!
Hi James, I’ve noticed that you are using plywood that looks like it matches the finish inside our EKKO. Did you source this through Winnebago, or a third party sheet goods company? Thanks!
Indeed. I used it because it’s very lightweight stuff.
I got it from Winnebago. (But be ready for sticker shock when you call them. They don’t let it go cheaply!)
And the shipping was via freight too, also sticker shock, I would imagine.
We found a replacement for marine grade plywood that we use here for decks and platforms. Used in the ship building industry, but it isn’t finished. https://coosacomposites.com/
That’s one thing I miss about living in Salt Lake City: easier access to cool materials by just driving across town. There was a cool ultra-light plywood I could get there that I still miss.
Semi related to the current letter; re getting rid of propane. Electric fridges are the current adaptation to ridding our RVs of propane (fossil fuels). From what we see, they use enormous amounts of power. We rarely plug in, use solar. Also, the electric fridge gives off heat, not a benefit in warm climes. We don’t run/own a generator. more fossil fuels. We are looking at buying a new trailer (small 17′) and don’t know how to get around this issue. Any input? Thank you.
Well, I like my RVs not catching fire. So there’s that…
You’re misinformed about the electrical requirements of modern compressor refrigerators. They don’t use much electricity at all. The refrigerators that use lots of electricity are absorption (propane) refrigerators running in electric mode.
The only thing you’ve mentioned about compressor refrigerators that may be an issue would be that the heat they remove from the refrigerator compartment is vented inside. Compare that minor inconvenience against lackluster refrigeration, spoiled food, and possibly burning to death in your sleep, and the choice for us is obvious.
(I really hate absorption refrigerators…)
just watched the bike tray video, awesome work. I realized we’re cut from the same cloth when you said you had to buy a new tool, so the project is already a success!
Exactly.
Any day you get to buy a new tool is a good one!!
Great project, very thorough design., nice bike. Your woodworking skills are great. Next time you need to drill and tap a 1/4-20 hole in aluminum try this ( https://amzn.to/3yBImgi )
Hi James, great project as usual. A potential word of caution though.
I’m assuming you are using the stock blade on your new abrasive cut-off saw. Most abrasive wheels/disks are made from Aluminum oxide and are suitable only for ferrous metals. If they are used on non-ferrous metals such as aluminum, the hot soft material can embed itself in the wheel non-uniformly causing the wheel to become imbalanced and explode. This is why the go to cutting solution for aluminum is typically a toothed blade such as a band saw or even a carbide tipped circular saw blade. They do make special abrasive wheels out of silicon carbide which are suitable for non-ferrous materials. You might be able to find the appropriate size at a somewhat reasonable price for your saw.
I did have to buy the blade separately.
I thought it was strange that it didn’t come with one. Maybe that’s why.
I was about to post something similar. When I’ve cut aluminum, usually a fine-tooth wood blade works reasonably well.
Hopefully this is a timely video as I am hoping to build a bike tray for my van. Was there a reason you went with the 291 lbs. capacity slides vs. the similar 500 lbs. capacity slides Amazon also sells?
Well, Stef’s is a little more, but my bike is only 16 lbs.
I thought even the 291 lb slides were overkill!
We don’t have the cargo capacity to bring along another 500 lbs of stuff anyway.